Things To Do in Darjeeling

It’s 8am. I could hear some noise from the kitchen which was next to my bedroom. Breakfast was being prepared and I could not wait to start my day.

I had arrived in Darjeeling the day before, and my homestay host, Mr Pradhan had been sharing with me the various activities I could do throughout my stay at the hill station. However, the first thing I wanted to do that morning was to go to the District Magistrate’s Office to apply for the Inner Line Permit to enter Sikkim. I wasn’t sure how long it would take to process the permit, so I had decided to put aside sightseeing activities much later. Luckily, the Office was only 5 minutes walk from the guesthouse, and my host had offered to walk with me to the office and guide me through the application process.

After a hearty breakfast of oats porridge, toast, omelette and tea, I’d thought it was time to go to the District Magistrate’s Office. After all, it was 9am and government offices should be opened by then, right?

Me: Uncle, should we leave shortly for the Magistrate’s Office?
Host: You want to go now? But it’s only 9 o’clock.
Me: Oh, what time is the office opened?
Host: Hmm, around 10 or 10.30.
Me: 10.30? So late!
Host: (laughing) Ya, it’s government! They don’t start working so early. Anyway, it’s the festival time, so I think they will be opened at 10.30. We leave here at 10.30, ok? You want more tea?
Me: Ok. Ya, I’ll have more tea. 

What to do huh? So I had more tea – on the roof terrace – and the view was spectacular that morning. The sun shone brightly, the clouds dispersed and the green, hilly terrain of Darjeeling was very much visible.

Read: Curious About Darjeeling – Queen of the Hills

darjeeling hills rooftop

To pass time till 10.30, I planned my itinerary for the next two days. Darjeeling isn’t a very large hill station, hence many of the sights could be visited in a day though on a very rushed schedule. Should you wish to experience this hill station at a more relaxed pace which was what I did, then two days is good enough.

Here are the activities I did in Darjeeling:

Breakfast at Keventer’s

At the start of Nehru Road, Keventer’s is a popular place for most visitors as the restaurant is known for its breakfast with bacon and sausages. The bakery is on the ground floor of the restaurant while the diner is upstairs. Visitors can opt to have their breakfast on the balcony overlooking the Clock Tower which is part of the Municipality Building.

darjeeling keventers upper floor

I found my experience at Keventer’s just ordinary. Any romantic notions of sitting outside, eating bacon and eggs, enjoying the cool air – all washed away by the incessant sounds of honking from the roads below. I should be used to this by now (after all I have had been travelling to Honkistan 9 times!) but I found the continuous blaring of horns in this small hill station unbearable.

Sorry to spoil the idyllic settings for you but if you’re OK with honking first thing in the morning, then Keventer’s is the place 😉

darjeeling clock tower
Breakfast at Keventer’s overlooks the Clock Tower

Walk along Nehru Road to The Mall

After breakfast, you can walk along Nehru Road which is lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. Shops open at 10am, so it’s best to postpone shopping a little later. Continue walking to the top of Nehru Road where you will find Chowrasta or The Mall. The Mall is the heart of Darjeeling town where locals and tourists relax on the many benches to people-watch or to admire the grand views of mountain peaks and valleys all around.


Even the dog is relaxed
Even the dog is relaxed

Observatory Hill

Further uphill from The Mall is Observatory Hill, an area on the hill top which provides a panoramic view of the snow-capped mountains especially Mount Kangchenjunga. Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world, and many a time, views of this mountain are not visible due to clouds enveloping the entire area.

darjeeling valleys

I was very fortunate to see Kangchenjunga twice. The first time was on the way to the Foreigners Registration Office on Laden La Road – my host waited patiently for me while I was catching my breath after walking up several steep narrow lanes, and then he pointed in the direction behind me and exclaimed, “Oh look, Kangchenjunga!”.

The second time was at Observatory Hill. I stopped walking to take in the magnificent views of the lush forests, relishing the cool nip in the air, and listening to children singing from a nearby school, and then miraculously, Kangchenjunga appeared! I had the mountain to myself for full ten minutes, after which it disappeared in the thick of clouds.

Mount Kangchenjunga
Mount Kangchenjunga

Shopping and Eating
The walk on Observatory Hill will bring you back to The Mall. By the time you return to The Mall, the shops would be opened. Habeeb Mullick & Sons is famous for curios and Tibetan jewellery. Ever since my Ladakh trip in 2010, I have always been fascinated by Tibetan jewellery typically made of turquoise or coral stones and silver. I bought two lovely necklaces from Habeeb.

Another thing that fascinates me is…books. My trips to India always, invariably, involve a trip (or two) to book shops. Books in India are much cheaper than in Malaysia, but most of all, I’m amazed with the various genres of books readily available here. Needless to say, I spent a long time browsing through the books in Oxford Book Shop and ended up buying four books.

Read: 7-Point Interests (Plus 2!) of Gangtok

darjeeling nehru road shops
Shops, restaurants & cafes on Nehru Road
Oxford Bookshop
Oxford Bookshop

With all that shopping (and the cool air), you would be hungry. Plenty of cafes and restaurants on Nehru Road. There’s Glenary’s – a 100 year old restaurant established during the British colonial days – serving Indian and continental dishes. The cakes and pastries from the bakery are quite nice.

darjeeling glenarys

The restaurant which I highly recommend is Kunga. Kunga is a small restaurant on Gandhi Road, serving delicious Tibetan food. I ordered pork gyathuk, a soup noodle dish of pork and omelette slices. The broth is absolutely yummy. Don’t worry, vegetarian options are also available here.


darjeeling pork gyathuk kunga restaurant
Pork Gyathuk

Happy Valley Tea Estate

Darjeeling is synonymous with tea and a first time visit to Darjeeling is incomplete without a visit to a tea plantation. Close to my guesthouse is Happy Valley Tea Estate, the second oldest tea estate in Darjeeling.

darjeeling happy valley tea estate

I visited the estate with a Dutch tourist (we happened to meet while processing our Sikkim permit) but we didn’t get the chance to see the factory operations because it was their lunch break, and neither did we see any tea leave plucking in the gardens because it was off-season. We were informed later that the tea leave plucking season is March-May and factory operations are best seen around 7.30am.

Read: What You Need to Know About Cameron Highlands

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and The Zoo

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) was established in honour of Tenzing Norgay after his successful climb of Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary. Since that successful expedition, enthusiasm for mountaineering grew among the people in the region. HMI is a pioneering institute giving mountaineering lessons to students from all over the world. Tenzing was the first director of field training for the institute.

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute

The HMI complex now consists of the mountaineering and rock climbing school, a memorial in honour of Tenzing (his remains were cremated here) and a museum. I highly recommend travellers to visit HMI especially the museum because it houses all the mountaineering paraphernalia and memorabilia from various Everest expeditions over many decades.

Tenzing Norgay's remains were cremated here (plague in the foreground) while the museum is the building in the background.
Tenzing Norgay’s remains were cremated here (plague in the foreground) while the museum is the building in the background.

To access and exit HMI, you will have to walk past the Zoo. I’m not really into zoos but it’s worthwhile to see the high altitude animals of the Himalayas such as the snow leopards and red pandas.

Some of you may realise that I didn’t mention about sunrise view of Mount Kangchenjunga at Tiger Hill and the Toy Train ride. To be honest, I’m not a morning person. To wake up at 3.30am in order to be at Tiger Hill by 4.15, and to encounter fleets of cars with hundred of tourists rushing for the perfect spot to take photos of the mountains – not exactly a motivation for me. Furthermore, the mountains are constantly engulfed in fog and mist, so there is no guarantee of a perfect sunrise view from Tiger Hill or anywhere in Darjeeling for that matter.

As for the Toy Train, undoubtedly, it would be a novelty experience to be in a small steam engine chugging up the hilly terrain on narrow railway tracks since the 1880s. However, the route is exactly the same as my car journey from Bagdogra airport to Darjeeling, thus no difference in views of the hills and small towns. As a result, I skipped the entire Toy Train experience.

Read: Top Places in Nepal for Non-Adventure Travellers


Ever since I came back from India, friends (Indians and Malaysians) have asked for my opinion on Darjeeling. It’s a charming hill station but there were times I was bemused by the huge number of tourists visiting this town. Darjeeling’s small infrastructure is bursting through the seams to support more and more hotels and guesthouses, shops, eateries, and…vehicles. With more vehicles, there is congestion and pollution. The locals want tourism as the district relies on tourism revenue while others say that congestion is increasingly a common fate suffered by hill stations in India.


Well, I’m not here to proffer my opinion on what should work best for hill stations in India. Despite the congestion, my time in Darjeeling was memorable. As much as I enjoyed the sights, it was the “mundane” activities that stuck with me such as browsing in Oxford Book Shop, eating delicious pastries in Glenary’s or…just enjoying a cup of Darjeeling tea on the roof terrace of my guesthouse with sweeping views of the hills and mountains.


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  1. It’s too bad to see that tourism is not being sustainably developed in little towns like this. I appreciate your honest opinions about Darjeeling. Is it mainly the famous tea that draws all the tourists to this hill station? #FarawayFiles

    1. No, tea is not the only draw to the hill station but mainly the cooler climate and the mountain range. Hill stations in North and North-East India are very close to the Himalayan mountain range, and these mountains have a very special place in the hearts of Indians, in general – magical and breathtaking 🙂

  2. Yum! Wish I could have the Pork Gyathuk for lunch. India is so intriguing. Being from a country where space is taken for granted it is fascinating to see how people live in such close quarters. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles

  3. Oh my goodness, it looks so busy! More like my experience of Mumbai and Calcutta! I’ve been to Simla and I don’t remember it being anywhere near as busy than this – although it was a long time ago when I was there. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles. I loved the bookshops in India too – especially the second hand ones.

    1. Yeah there were many holidaymakers in Darjeeling during my trip – not sure if it was because of the festival when a lot of people in West Bengal state took time off. I love bookshops in India – my favourite place to shop!

  4. Before reading your last thoughts about the place, I was going to comment on the crowds. I am not an expert on urban planning and I am not a government official but it baffles me how certain places depend on tourism but do not invest in infrastructure. And, lets say the government is not willing to do anything, what about business owners? Some places are nice but they can be better.

    1. Hi Ruth, I understand where you’re coming from, valid points. Unfortunately this is India where small business owners in places like Darjeeling do not have much clout, unless they are multi-millionaires or politicians.

  5. The Pork Gyathuk looked delicious! The volume of tourists visiting these places does have an impact however I guess we are all guilty of this. Would love to see how they made the tea tough! #TheWeeklyPostcard

    1. I loved the pork gyathuk dish that I ordered the same in another city the following week. But it wasn’t as good as Kunga Restaurant in Darjeeling.

  6. Too bad the timing was off for your visit to the tea plantation. I would love to see how they make the tea. Did you at least get to taste some of the tea? #TheWeeklyPostcard

    1. I’m actually not very good at discerning good or bad tea haha, so even I did try some of Darjeeling tea, I wouldn’t know the difference, lol!

  7. Very interesting observation on Darjeeling. Most of the Indian cities are choc-o-bloc and infra is crumbling apart. Darjeeling is no exception with so many tourists coming down. I visited it in March of 2013 enroute to Gangtok.

  8. I love the bookstore! It looks so stuck in time & I bet the owner would have kept some ancient books that is more than a 100 years old.

    It’s sad to see hill stations that opened up to tourism is slowly falling into an environmental degradation because it was originally set-up as a place for the Colonial British to get away from the heat, not as a mass tourism destination.

    1. Yeah, the book shop looks so quaint and they have hundreds of books inside stacked from top to bottom and side shelves. The assistants are amazing – they immediately know where to find which book you’re after! You’re right about the downside of hill stations opened to tourism. Our Cameron Highlands is one example of rampant development for tourism.

    1. Hi Ankur, thanks for your kind words and comment, glad that you enjoyed the post 🙂 Well, sometimes we can’t run away from tourists, it’s part and parcel of travelling. I’m hoping that Darjeeling folks realise the strong need for preservation and conservation of their lands especially the environment and natural resources.

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